Viva la revolución: Visiting the Zapatistas in Oventik
Mexico's southernmost state of Chiapas is no stranger to political upheaval. As home to one of the country's largest groups of indigenous populations, Chiapas' social and political history has largely revolved around the struggle of these peoples to win their rights and fight against oppression from the Mexican government and multinational corporations.
A major chapter in that story involves the formation and rise of one of the world's most famous leftist revolutionary organizations: the Zapatistas. Officially known as the Zapatista Army of National Liberation (EZLN is the Spanish acronym), the group is named after Emiliano Zapata, a leader of agrarian reform and central figure in the Mexican Revolution of the early twentieth century.
With roughly 3,000 active members in their militia and tens of thousands of community supporters throughout Chiapas, the Zapatistas have remained "at war" with the Mexican government for nearly 25 years. Aligning themselves with the larger anti-globalization movement, they primarily call for local, indigenous control over land and economic resources.
On January 1, 1994 — the day NAFTA went into effect — the Zapatistas made their revolutionary stance public and seized several towns and cities across Chiapas. They also freed prisoners in San Cristóbal de las Casas, attacked military barracks, and set fire to police buildings there.
While in San Cristóbal, we were eager to learn more about the history of the Zapatista movement. In a local theater we watched an independent film which featured original footage from the 1994 uprising and the ensuing campaign against the Mexican state. After doing a bit of research online, we also learned that we could visit a Zapatista outpost in a town called Oventik about one hour north of San Cristóbal.
Oventik is so under the radar, you won't even find it on Google Maps. But it's not difficult to travel there if you know what you're doing. Online, we read that we could take a combi (shared van) from a terminal just past the municipal market on Calle Utrilla. When you arrive at the group of combis under this sign, you can ask for Oventik and they'll direct you onto a van, which will leave when it's more or less filled. The cost of the combi ride was $43 pesos ($2.15 USD) per person. The windy roads through the lush mountainous terrain provide some enjoyable scenery on the roughly one-hour trip. When you arrive, the combi should drop you off right in front of the entrance to the Zapatista stronghold.
We instantly knew we were in the right place, as all around us we saw elaborate murals and revolutionary slogans painted on the walls of buildings. "Para todos todo, Nada para nosotros" ("Everything for everyone, Nothing for us.") one of them read. Another sign stated that no Mexican police or government official was allowed to enter. We then approached the gate and were greeted by a masked (unarmed) woman guard. After another comrade joined her, we answered a few basic questions about the intention of our visit, our occupations, and so on. They were very kind and welcoming, and despite the black balaclavas, we didn't feel intimidated at all.
After signing in, we were invited inside where we could see the main road of the village stretching downhill. On either side of us, there were elaborately painted buildings featuring famous revolutionaries, such as Che Guevara and Subcomandante Marcos, the most well-known public leader of the Zapatistas. The Zapatistas are committed to women's equality, and we had read that it is required that at least half of their committees be composed of women, so we were not surprised to see a couple of buildings specifically designated for women's organizing meetings and other activities.
While it's okay to take photos of the building themselves, do not take pictures of the people. And as always, it's best to ask your guide if it's okay to photograph the murals just to make your intentions clear.
As we walked, we chatted with the woman who had been assigned to accompany us. Although she was kind, we quickly realized that many of our questions (e.g. about the size of the village and the nature of life there) would not be answered. After all, they are at war with the Mexican state and cannot afford to trust every stranger who walks through their gates.
At the bottom of the hill, we came upon a scene of roughly thirty young teenagers playing a game in a circle. As they laughed and talked, they hardly noticed us walking past. We then toured the area that housed the school buildings and saw many more young people busying themselves, some playing outside and others carrying books and going to class. We saw several other buildings including a pharmacy, an auditorium, and small stores where food and other supplies could be purchased. We don't recall seeing many adults and no one was armed. In fact, the village didn't feel all that different from any other rural pueblo in Chiapas.
After thanking our guide for showing us around (and being rejected for offering a bit of money for her trouble), we grabbed a bite to eat in the comedor near the entrance. At this point, no one was really paying attention to us and we were able to leisurely walk around a bit more and examine some of the photographs of past Zapatista events along the walls. Outside of the Zapatistas' gates, we found a small "gift shop" just 100 feet down the road that sold EZLN-branded products, so we bought a small handmade key chain as a keepsake.
Getting back was relatively simple. After unsuccessfully waiting for a combi to pass, we eventually hopped into a shared taxi, which only cost a few pesos more than the ride there.
In a sense, we left Mexico that day and entered into another country controlled by a different set of laws and institutions. We weren't really sure what to expect going in, especially as tourists from the United States, the primary force behind harmful trade agreements like NAFTA to which the Zapatistas are staunchly opposed. But what we found was a peaceful and welcoming community of people committed to achieving a freer and more egalitarian society. Oventik is one of the Zapatistas' outward-facing bases, and they invite guests because they want outsiders to see the kind of community they are cultivating. We were impressed by all they had accomplished despite the antagonisms of the Mexican state, and as advocates for social justice ourselves, we were inspired by the vision of a better world reflected in their mission, their murals, and their movement.