Our guide to Oaxaca City
Oaxaca City seems to have a bit of everything: great weather, ancient ruins, rich cultural traditions, incredible food, and beautifully rugged landscapes. While easily accessible by bus or plane from other parts of the country, it's as if the mountains surrounding this city have helped preserve and protect the indigenous traditions that can be seen everywhere in daily life. While particularly known for its Day of the Dead celebrations and rituals, there are festivities year round in this vibrant city. Below are some of the highlights from our seven week stay in this cultural gem of Mexico.
Hierve el Agua
About an hour outside of the city, you'll find a top eco-tourist attraction that's well worth a visit. Translated as "the water boils," this site's primary feature is a natural infinity pool that has formed a stunning petrified waterfall. We recommend avoiding the tour, bringing a bathing suit, and if you're feeling adventurous, staying overnight at the campsite or one of the cabañas. To plan your own trip, read more about this geological beauty in our post "Chasing the sun: Camping at Hierve el Agua."
Zapotec ruins
Oaxaca valley has been home to rich civilizations for millenia. The Zapotecs, one of the great pre-Hispanic empires of Mesoamerica, left their mark in several ancient sites, the most prominent of which are easily accessible from Oaxaca City. For about a dollar you can take a colectivo to Monte Albán, Mitla, or Yagul. These impressive historical landmarks showcase the architectural and artistic achievements of this ancient civilization, which lives on in nearly 400,000 current residents of Oaxaca.
The Zócalo
Like many cities across Mexico, you'll find a bustling zócalo in the heart of Oaxaca City. Unlike the vast concrete square of the country's capital, Oaxaca's zócalo feels more like a traditional park with shady trees and benches throughout. From old men reading the paper while having their shoes shined to kids playing with bubbles and balloons, all generations gather here during the day and night. Lined with cafés and restaurants that offer outdoor seating, it's a great place to grab lunch and spend an afternoon people watching. In the evenings, the zócalo comes alive with clowns, mariachi bands, and artists.
Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán
Located on the charming pedestrian street of Macedonia Alcalá, this exquisite church once served as a monastery and later as military barracks. Restored to religious use in the 20th century, it is today a church and museum. In classic Baroque style, this church is ornately decorated with more than 60,000 sheets of 23.5-karat gold leaf. Step inside and let your eyes take in the intricate details on everything from the wood carvings on the doors to the embellished designs on the ceiling.
Ethnobotanical garden
The state of Oaxaca contains the most plant diversity of any state in Mexico. Located adjacent to the Church of Santo Domingo, the ethnobotanical garden offers a generous sampling of plant species from across the state. Take a tour through the gardens to learn about the various medicinal, artistic, and agricultural properties and uses of these plants. The cost of the tour (which is required to see the gardens) is $50 pesos in Spanish and $100 pesos in English.
Art galleries and museums
An artistic hub, Oaxaca City is home to dozens of galleries and museums showcasing local talent. Lining the streets of the historic center, checking out these exhibits is a great way to spend an afternoon.
El Árbol del Tule
When you think of giant trees like the sequoias or the redwoods, you probably have images of forests in mind. But the stoutest tree in the world is located not deep in the woods, but in a tiny village called Santa María del Tule just six miles from Oaxaca City. This behemoth of a Montezuma cypress tree is a massive 138 feet in circumference and dwarfs the town church next to it. Scientists estimate it is about 1,500 years old, possibly much older.
Visit the local markets
If you're like us and enjoy eating fresh, local food, then a trip to the markets of Oaxaca and surrounding towns will satisfy your cravings. Open every day, the central markets of 20 de Noviembre and Benito Juárez offer everything from tejate (a local corn and cacao based drink) to chapulines (fried grasshoppers) to every variety of mole (a rich sauce consisting of chilis, chocolate, and many other ingredients). The nearby towns including Etla, Ocotlán, and Atzompa have special markets on certain days of the week. The biggest and oldest, however, is the Sunday market at Tlacolula. You can read our post all about it here.
Take a cooking class
Mexican food is one of the most complex cuisines in the world, and Oaxaca is considered by many to be a culinary capital of the country. If you want to learn how to make authentic Oaxacan dishes so you can enjoy this rich, decadent food when you return home, take a cooking class. Read all about our experience with Cooking Classes Oaxaca in our post "Learn from the locals: Making mole negro in Mexico's Culinary Capital."
Mezcal and pulque tasting
One of our favorite things to do while traveling is sampling some of the local spirits. While most foreigners know Mexico for its tequila, you won't find much of that in Oaxaca. Instead, you'll encounter tequila's smokier cousin, mezcal. The definition of tequila is more restrictive, since it can only come from blue agave and must be produced in the Jalisco region. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be sourced from any type of agave which lends it different flavors. Oaxaca happens to be the capital of mezcal production and there are hundreds of family-owned producers in the state. To get a tour of the production process and snag some bottles for a fraction of the normal price, you can take a colectivo out to Matatlán about an hour from Oaxaca City. Within the city there are plenty of places to sample some of the best mezcals and pulque (another agave based drink made from the fermented sap of the plant). We recommend La Mezcalerita on Macedonia Alcalá.
Savor local flavors
We're huge foodies and eating local dishes is always one of the highlights of our travels. Oaxaca is recognized as a culinary capital of Mexico, and we dove head-first into the food scene. Read our post about our favorite places to eat here.
Ever been to Oaxaca? What are some of your favorite places to see and things to do here? Let us know in the comments below!