Merry Christmas from Mérida: Things to do in the capital of the Yucatán
It was an easy sell to Rebecca's family. After all, they had (correctly) long assumed we wouldn't be returning to the US for the holidays, and as a family that really enjoys spending Christmas together with lots of food and drink and board games, having them travel from the cold snowscapes of the north to the sunny coast of Mexico seemed like a no-brainer. So the summer before we set off to Mexico, we had it more or less figured out. Since we would be in Chiapas from November into December, and since Rebecca's brother goes to Cancún for work in the days leading up to Christmas, we would meet somewhere in the Yucatán. In love with the close proximity to the beach, the pastel colonial buildings, and the fact that nearly every home on Airbnb seemed to have its own private swimming pool, we decided on Mérida. A short flight from Cancún, a very long bus ride from from San Cristóbal, and an international airport that served our family flying in from New York, it seemed like the perfect place for a Christmas getaway, if you don't mind missing the snow and what not.
Though we have no idea what Mérida is like outside of Christmas time, we really enjoyed our week there. Maybe it was seeing family after four months on the road, the nightly facials from Rebecca's mom, or the fact that we really enjoyed 90 degree weather after freezing our butts off in San Cristóbal for a month, but our time in Mérida was everything we wanted for Christmas: a beautiful, sunny, delicious, relaxing time with the people we missed the most. Though we didn't do a whole lot during our stay there due to much of the city being closed for the holidays and our time spent poolside guzzling beer and playing cards, below are a few notable places to visit if you find yourself in this lovely Mexican city.
Walk around the Zócalo
Unless you're there during Christmas, we assume you won't see the the life-size nativity scene with lines of people waiting to take family photos in front. The Zócalo also will likely not be lit by thousands of Christmas lights strung around every tree, but who knows, maybe they leave these beauties up all year. Either way, it's a lovely plaza surrounded by shops, restaurants, and the beautifully whitewashed cathedral, which happens to be one of the oldest in the Americas. Make sure to grab a marquesita, a flaky wafer rolled around your choice of filling (our favorites: cajeta and nutella, duh).
Eat your way through the municipal market
If you're always on the prowl for the best local foods like us, then you probably plan to spend a good chunk of your time navigating the local market. Head to the Mercado Lucas de Galvez (Calle 56-A) and plan to get lost for a bit as you find your way to the prepared food section. Grab a table, order from the delightfully simple menus, and enjoy some traditional Yucatecan food. You're in for a treat, as the Yucatán is home to some seriously killer dishes like cochinita pibil (pork that'ś been marinated in citrus and then slow-cooked in a banana leaf) and sopa de lima (a citrus soup with shredded chicken or turkey and strips of fried tortilla).
Take a dip in a cenote
Ever dream of swimming in those crystal-clear turquoise waters hidden undergound that you see on instagram? Chances are, it's a cenote in the Yucatán. The peninsula is home to more than 6,000 of these natural sinkholes. Once used for sacred offerings by the Maya, these subterranean bodies of water are also a delight to cool off in the heat. While tricky to get to on public transit (they are often in the middle of nowhere), if you have your own car, you can drive to any number of them just outside the city or hire a taxi to take you there. Alternatively, you can book a tour that provides transportation to and from the cenotes, and often includes entrance fees and lunch. Rebecca's brother generously bought tickets for the entire family as a Christmas present and we had a blast visiting three of them. Thanks, Pete!
Visit one of the seven wonders of the world
The Yucatán is proudly home to the famous Mayan ruins of Chichén Itzá. While we're a little embarrassed to admit we didn't make it there (cramming in sites was not a priority during our short and coveted time with family), it's at the top of our list for our next trip to the peninsula. And according to others who spent more time around the Yucatán, it's worth visiting several of the other ruins while there. Their tip: rent a car and visit them on your own, as the best are rarely included in tours and you'll likely have the entire place to yourself.
Soak up the sun
As family hadn't seen hot weather since the summer and we hadn't been to the coast since our beach days in Oaxaca, finding the ocean was a must while in the Yucatán. Luckily, Mérida is conveniently located about an hour from the port of Progreso and is well-serviced by public bus. While Progreso certainly isn't our ideal beach (it's a major drop off point for cruises — enough said), it was nice that we could hop on a bus for $20 pesos ($1 USD) each and find ourselves sitting with our feet in the sand shortly after. The buses leave from the Auto Progreso bus station located on Calle 62 between Calle 65 and Calle 67 every 20 minutes. Pro tip: turn down the all-you-can-drink offers from vendors on the beach and grab some beer from the Oxxo on the street. While the $10 deal may seem like a bargain for those new to Mexico, the seasoned traveler knows that you can pick up 8 caguamas (1.2 liter bottles) for the same price, and we're pretty sure you'll have a hard time finishing that many in a single sitting.
Those looking for beaches without all the tourists and vendors should head about 30 minutes down the coast to Chicxulub. This sleepy beach town is where locals from Mérida spend their weekends. There isn't much going on in Chicxulub, but that's the point. Plan on spending long hours in a hammock with a cup of fresh ceviche in hand. The best place to grab fish is a tiny eatery in town called El Pescado Patrullero (Calle 22 41). Freshly caught and prepared and shockingly cheap, this place is sure to put a smile on your face. Our recommendations: the filete a la diabla, al mojo de ajo, or al coco are all solid choices. The ceviche is also banging. To get to Chicxulub from Progreso, hop in a combi (a shared van) or bring your own wheels. Just make sure you've got four wheel drive for the sand roads.
Between spending much needed time with family and the holidays, we didn't get to see nearly as much as we planned to do in Mérida or the Yucatán in general. But we promised each other that a very long road trip through Mexico is in our future. This less frequented part of the peninsula (we're looking at you, Cancún and Playa del Carmen) is well worth the visit.