Off the beaten path: Trekking around Nicaragua's Northern Highlands

Nicaragua is a backpacker's dream, because unlike so many other Latin American countries, its compact size and well-connected chicken bus system make traveling around the east a breeze. So after a couple of weeks soaking up history and sunshine in León, we decided to head to the northern highlands for a change of scenery and cooler weather. While most travelers skip this region and head straight to colorful Granada, we were craving some hiking and were curious about these small towns and forests that witnessed some of the country's fiercest conflict during the 20th century. What we found in Estelí, Matagalpa, and Jinotega was a slower pace of life, some of the best coffee we've ever tasted, and a revolutionary spirit that persists to this day. Best of all was the striking lack of people we came across on our hikes, though we did cross paths with many cows, horses, pigs, and chickens. Here is our guide to the often missed but beautiful northern highlands of Nicaragua.

Estelí

Just a three hour bus ride from León, Estelí is a great place to base yourself for a few day hikes. The higher elevation (844 meters) offers a cooler climate perfect for afternoon treks and outdoor excursions. Things to do: 

Explore Somoto Canyon: Located near the Honduran border, Somoto Canyon is the perfect place to hike, swim, and jump of cliffs into pristine — but very cold — pools. Choose a tour of 4 or 6 hours and explore the canyon's rim, river, and caves.

Hike around Miraflor Nature Reserve: Miraflor is a fascinating project aimed at developing ecological tourism to help support long-time farming families in the area. Essentially, it is a collection of private farms. You pay a local guide to hike across rolling hills bathed in soft golden light, and the money is put into a communal fund. Life here seems untouched by time, and the locally-organized ecotourism has helped preserve this important environment. For a more in-depth experience of life here, you can organize a home stay with a local family who will show you everything from how to harvest coffee (November - February) to how to milk a cow.

Visit a cigar factory: If hiking isn't your thing, or if you're looking for a well-deserved treat after a hike, Estelí happens to be the cigar capital of Nicaragua. During the Cuban Revolution, many Cubans settled in Nicaragua, and they brought tobacco seeds with them. Today, this region is world famous for their cigars. But despite cigar factories lining the Pan-American highway that runs through this town, we found it surprisingly difficult to buy cigars here. After a two-hour search with our backpacks in tow, we found ourselves banging on the garage door of a cigar factory and finally let inside to purchase a few. To save yourself the trouble of asking around for cigars and being shown packs of cigarettes for a few hours, you can book a cigar tour through TreeHuggers.

How to get to Estelí from León: Catch a chicken bus or a minibus from León's bus terminal on 6ta Calle NE for C$100 ($3.33 USD).

Matagalpa

It's hard to put our finger on exactly what it was that we loved so much about Matagalpa. Maybe it was the way the houses climbed up into the green hills that trapped the clouds. Maybe it was our afternoon routine of enjoying sugar-packed treats from Repostería Gutiérrez in the park. Maybe it was the feminist street art and collectives that dotted the small city. Whatever it was, we ended up staying for a week and felt relaxed, rejuvenated, and ready to hit the tourist city of Granada afterwards. Some highlights:

Visit Selva Negra: An eco-lodge with a restaurant and several short hiking trails, this organic farm is a great place to visit for the day or spend the night. Walk around the pond, enjoy the sweet smell of the coffee trees, and hike the quiet trails keeping an eye out for quetzales and monkeys. Selva Negra is easily accessible by chicken bus from the Contran Sur Bus Terminal in Matagalpa. Just hop on any bus heading to Jinotega and tell the driver you are getting off at Selva Negra, and he'll let you know when to get off. The bus fare is C$13 ($0.43 USD), and the entrance to Selva Negra is C$100 ($3.33 USD).

Hike historic trails around the city: Matagalpa was an important city during the Nicaraguan Civil War. To walk the paths that Somoza's troops took as they invaded the city, head to Café Girasol and buy a hiking map for C$30 ($1 USD). Hikes range from a few hours to a full day.

Stop by the Carlos Fonseca Museum: Like many museums in Nicaragua, it isn't particularly large or impressive, but as the birthplace of the revolutionary fighter so beloved by Nicaraguans, a peak in here feels like paying homage. And though the info boards aren't arranged in any chronological order, we learned a good amount about the Civil War that helped us understand this place a bit better.

Try various local coffee blends at Selección Nicaragüense: The northern highlands are known for producing some pretty incredible coffee, and while the best way to sample and buy bags is by visiting a local farm during harvest season (November - February), you can try exceptional coffees from around the region at this coffee shop.

Savor a steak at Toro Bravo: Aside from coffee, Matagalpa is also known for its beef, and the best place to enjoy a decadent filet is at Toro Bravo. A 10 oz. bacon-wrapped tenderloin will set you back a mere C$345 ($11.50 USD). Just take our advice and order it rare (Nicaraguans tend to overcook their beef).

How to get to Matagalpa from Estelí: Catch a chicken bus from the Cotran Sur Bus Terminal in Estelí heading to Matagalpa. The bus takes about an hour and costs C$36 ($1.20 USD).

Jinotega

A tiny town in the mountains along the Ruta de Café, Jinotega is even slower-paced than the towns above. Things to do:

Climb Cerro la Cruz: This giant cross on the hillside was placed here by Franciscan Fray Margíl de Jesús in 1703. To get here and take in the best view of Jinotega, walk straight through the cemetery and begin the hour or so climb.

Grab a cup of coffee at Café Flor de Jinotega: Said to be one of the best coffee stops along the Ruta de Café, make sure to try some locally-grown coffee here.

How to get to Jinotega from Matagalpa: Catch a chicken bus from the Cotran Sur Bus Terminal in Matagalpa heading to Jinotega for C$26 ($0.87 USD).