Valhalla: Visiting a macadamia farm near Antigua
Around nearly every central plaza and main street in Guatemala, vendors push carts filled with all different kinds of nuts. Sorted in neat piles, these legumes are bought by the spoonful or bag. It's a backpacker's dream scooping up these energy-packed morsels. And while you can choose from the ordinary peanuts, cashews, almonds, and Brazil nuts, here in Central America you can find tons of macadamia nuts — and for a really good price. So when we heard there is a farm just outside of Antigua that grows these buttery treats and makes macadamia nut butter, flour, and creams, we knew we had to go.
Just a short chicken bus ride from Antigua, Valhalla feels a world removed from the city. Macadamia trees cover the property and bright flowers pop among the green here and there. Leaves rustle in the breeze and the air is sweet. It's a perfect little escape from the car fumes, street vendors, and tourist groups.
We knew little about the farm before arriving, and what we found was that it's so much more than a place that grows and harvests macadamia nuts. The farm is committed to sustainable practices and supporting indigenous communities. They have planted more than 350,000 macadamia trees across Guatemala. These trees, which can produce nuts for over 100 years, are a great defense against climate change. Each tree converts 63 cubic feet of carbon dioxide into oxygen a day! The roots help keep water in the soil and prevent soil degradation and erosion. The farm supports the genetic diversity of the macadamia tree and uses an open gene pool of tree species, allowing the plant to adapt to its natural environment and reducing the susceptibility to diseases. The trees also help prevent slash and burn agriculture, since they produce nuts that feed and provide income for indigenous families.
At the farm, you can take a free tour to see the different stages of tree growth, learn about the sustainable practices the farm uses, and see how the nuts are harvested. But to truly enjoy the wonders of this rich nut, we recommend following the tour with a bountiful meal of macadamia nut pancakes in the garden. The farm's restaurant serves various macadamia nut-infused dishes including wood-smoked meats, but the real highlight in our opinion are the pancakes that are served all day. Gluten-free and protein-packed, the pancakes are made of macadamia nut flour and topped with macadamia nut butter and your choice of homemade blueberry jam or chocolate (white or dark). The nut flour makes these pancakes very dense and filling, and one order was plenty to share between the two of us.
Once you're satiated and sleepy, you can enjoy a free mini-facial (plus tip) that incorporates pure macadamia nut oil and cream. Or, if you have a little more time, you can splurge on a full massage, manicure, pedicure, or facial at the farm's spa. We didn't get any spa services while there, but others we ran into on the farm including a massage therapist from Quebec said it was one of the best massages she's ever had. What we can vouch for is the luxurious macadamia oil and cream. A drop is all you need for your skin to feel silky smooth. Rebecca loved it so much that a good chunk of our small monthly budget was spent on a bottle of each.
How to get there
While some people we met at the farm had splurged on a taxi, it was really easy to get there from Antigua by chicken bus. Simply head to the main bus station near the municipal market and look for buses headed to San Miguel Dueñas. Tell the bus driver you're going to Valhalla or "las macadamias." The ride costs Q4 ($0.57 USD) per person each way and is about 25 minutes. The bus will drop you off right at the farm. Just walk up the driveway and follow the signs. To get back to Antigua, just wait for a chicken bus down on the main road by the Valhalla sign.